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I kinda feel for Gillian Clark. She is one of the best female chef’s in the area and the woman has a reputation with a capital R.
Namely her rep is she is a huge bitch.
Now, I have never met the woman so I cannot speak to the affect of her bitchiness. I have heard stories, but you never know how much flair is added to them. I will say this: I am sure I would not even have to address her reputation if she wasn’t a woman. It is an old and worn out cliche, but assertive, driven women too often get this label slapped on them.
I don’t care if Ms. Clark is a bitch or not, I just care that she is doing some fantastic cooking. Her food at the dearly departed Colorado Kitchen was divine and her new place in a hidden nook of Silver Spring, The General Store, shows the same promise.
In an interview, Clark said she envisioned her new, minimalistic place as a “good Cracker Barrel” and she largely succeeds. It is down home cooking, heavy on Southern Fare and light on atmosphere. The menu is populated with po’ boys, potpies, shrimp and grits and lots of pie. I had to try out her specialty; fried chicken.
Now, I would never consider myself a fried chicken aficionado–my field of expertise lies in burgers–but this stuff was amazing. Crispy and flavorful, it arrives at your table piping hot, straight from the fryer. It is done correctly so it isn’t greasy at all. And my collard greens? I can say without a shred of doubt they were the absolute best I have ever had. They were vinegary, studded with pork and spellbindingly addictive. I could eat a double order for dinner. I also loved that I could get a beer at this hole in the wall–I went with a Blue Moon–and the simple decor suits the place.
Some improvement is needed, though. We arrived at 6 pm on a Sunday night and by 6:30 they were out of chicken. The cornbread was a bit inconsistent; my pieces were burnt on the bottom and gummy while my friend’s was perfect. The mac and cheese was good, but certainly not great. Sadly, it was a bit cold, too. I also wish they would drop prices a bit; $17 for a meal consisting of three pieces of dark meat chicken (even though I do enjoy dark meat) is a tad steep. Lastly, it seems they could utilize the space a bit better; my friend Pepparazo correctly observed that they could most definitely fit more tables in the place.
Despite the need for some tweaks, I left really satisfied. It is a little gem brimming with tasty food and a cute atmosphere. Frankly, I don’t really care if Clark is a bitch or Mother Theresa, I just care that she can make some chicken and greens…and she sure can.
8:42 am on April 15th, 2009
I can’t imagine a restaurant running out of chicken.
Interesting review though.
Well, ordering is a science, but that is WAY early to run out.
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8:44 am on April 15th, 2009
My day should’ve started with some collard greens studded with pork.
Oh right. And it so often seems that people who give others bad reps do so out of a false sense of entitlement. Like, “What? She can’t be a good chef AND approachable. That’s what I’M supposed to be.”
I agree–people want to shoot her down…don’t want her to “have it all”.
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8:46 am on April 15th, 2009
I know this is weird for a vegetarian to say, but I LOVE southern food. Grits, greens and cornbread… Goddamn. My mom (despite being Irish and from Chicago) makes the best cornbread I’ve EVER had anywhere, and I’d actually broken my “I Don’t Cook” rule to recreate it. Hers is baked, and I’ve also tried skillet cornbread. *salivates*
Also, you’re right. Her attitude would matter more if she were the waitress. If the public doesn’t really have all that much contact with her, who the hell cares if she’s a tish bit bitchy?
She can be the biggest bitch in the world as long as she gets me those greens…
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8:54 am on April 15th, 2009
I had a couple of brief interactions with Chef Clark, and while she wasn’t bubbly and fake like a high school Homecoming Queen, she certainly wasn’t bitchy either. I think she is incredibly passionate about food, and that sometimes comes off as abrupt or toody. Just like you alluded to above, I don’t go to restaurants to shmooz with the chef and be her BFF–I go to eat excellent food. And that chicken looks like excellent food.
It’s funny that you mention running out of chicken. One of the most popular restaurants in ATL, Watershed, has fried chicken only on Tuesday nights. If you make a reservation, they practically read you a disclaimer that states that you are entitled to a table and NOT to a plate of chicken (because they frequently run out). I wonder if it has less to do with ordering and more to do with only being able to prep it in small batches?
Who wants bubbly and fake anyway. Her chicken speaks volumes about her…and I like it.
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9:05 am on April 15th, 2009
collard greens and mac & cheese – this place sounds like HEAVEN. and yes, if she were the server, the bitchiness would be above and beyond annoying – but if she can cook like that, then dayyyyum.
Well, and we are not even sure if she is a bitch.
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9:08 am on April 15th, 2009
So long as her attitude doesn’t transfer to the chicken (in a negative way) I am down with her because I love good fried chicken. I am willing to overlook a lot in the cause of eating it. I draw the line on running out of it before I get mine, however. I am always on the lookout for good fc so may have to check this place out. Where exactly is it? And have you tried Ray’s American (by the same Ray of Ray’s Burgers and Ray’s Steaks in VA) in SS as I have heard that is good too?
Ray’s the Classics, you mean? I have not been there but have heard good things. Word is Ray’s the Steaks remains the best, though.
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9:18 am on April 15th, 2009
“Chef’s”? Chef’s what?
Huh? Are you pointing out a typo? You know how I love that.
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9:27 am on April 15th, 2009
Collard greens rule.
Peter
From the heavens I tell you.
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9:41 am on April 15th, 2009
Ran out of chicken by 6:30? I guess that speaks to its tastiness…? But yeah, I’ve been places where they’ve run out early, and it’s just so disappointing.
A huge letdown but I will continue to try to get there early.
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10:05 am on April 15th, 2009
It is definately a gender thing. Show me a chef who is not an ass in the kitchen. They are all egomaniacs.
Ray’s the steaks is the best (and most appropriately priced) steak in the area. And his burgers are the best I have ever eaten. I absolutely recommend any of his places.
Welcome Rob. His burgers are really great. I need to get back since hes witched buns…
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10:06 am on April 15th, 2009
omg I love greens. LOVE THEM. I need to learn how to make ‘em.
We should make ‘em!
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10:09 am on April 15th, 2009
Oh god, a woman after my own heart. This southern girl always has always been a lover of fried chicken and po’boys! YUM!
I mean, what is there not to like, right?
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10:11 am on April 15th, 2009
the screaming? that was from you and me both sister. and it was scary in my apartment. poor cosmo booted when he saw me freaking out. it was messy, the whole thing.
Your night was way worse than mine. I cannot believe you had to rewrite a whole freaking paper.
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10:24 am on April 15th, 2009
I think living in the South ruined fried chicken for me. It just doesn’t taste right without some Bojangles cajun salt on it.
But it is only good when it is southern.
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10:34 am on April 15th, 2009
I’m with you. Burgers > Fried Chicken.
and collard green? No thanks, I’ll pass. I just have a hard time imagining them ever being delicious. They are kind of like spinach to me… not good tasting but every now and then you have to eat them.
I really think you need to give greens a fair shake, Matt.
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10:34 am on April 15th, 2009
I love fried chicken. Love. It. And I can’t make it worth crap, so finding a restaurant that does? Worth it!
Yes, agreed. I cannot, or more accurately, WILL NOT make friend chicken at home. Slippery slope, my friend.
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10:39 am on April 15th, 2009
Oh I have been wanting to try that place!! mmm…that chicken looks good. You, however, are a bit nicer than me. I think screwing up cornbread is a sin, ESP at a restaurant.
Yeah, cornbread ain’t that hard. I make it all the time.
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10:44 am on April 15th, 2009
Whoops, rob beat me to it: Yes, that particular personality flaw earns a “bitch” label for women. Same flaw in men is “asshole.” Whatever. But they’re not in the front of the house and I’m not slaving for them, so bring on the chicken! Regardless, these things get easily blown out of proportion, since running a pro kitchen like Julia Child or Jacques Pepin are on their TV shows won’t get you anywhere, but people have this fantasy of the folksy genius running the thing.
‘Course, they also think cruise ship captains are Gavin McCloud knockoffs. *snork*
People want something to bitch about and gossip about…agreed.
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11:14 am on April 15th, 2009
I’m partial to fried chicken without bones and prepared like chicken fried steak. It’s amazing– I’m not sure anyone’s fried chicken could top that.
Oh. I think I have only had chicken fried steak…once?
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11:30 am on April 15th, 2009
Fried chicken = Win.
Every time.
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11:34 am on April 15th, 2009
A woman can be a raging bitch in the kitchen ’cause she’s bringing a valuable skill to the table, namely cooking skills. How many women have that nowadays? Not many. But god help the woman that can’t cook playing the raging bitch card like lesbians, lawyers, MBA grads, fashionistas, princesses, JAPs, feminists, women with toy poodles, rap video groupies, baller groupies, golddiggers, whores, star fuckers, bi-polar chicks, celebrity divas….
Anyway, DF is fond of southern fare.
I have the skills and I am a feminist…and sometimes consider myself a fashionista. I hope you can find it on your hardened heart to still love me.
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11:46 am on April 15th, 2009
Aren’t “chef” and “bitch” synonymous? Gordon Ramsey is sure bitchy.
Not all are though! Promise.
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11:52 am on April 15th, 2009
I have the skills and I am a feminist…and sometimes consider myself a fashionista. I hope you can find it on your hardened heart to still love me.
The blood in my veins is as cold as ice water pumped by a heart that is as black and dense as a supermassive black hole….or so my mom tells me….
but you’re a damn fine cook and you’ve cooked/baked for me so you were never lumped in with the other rif rafs.
Glad I can be an exception to your rule. One day you will meet me and will, surely, be gravely disappointed.
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12:19 pm on April 15th, 2009
what i would do to have good fried chicken. sadly in holland we only have kfc.
i made cornbread on monday and i failed. they were soggy. better luck next time
KFC? Oh dear. That is bleak.
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12:25 pm on April 15th, 2009
I love, love, love, LOVE fried chicken and corn bread. There is the place down here in Hastings, FL. (which BTW is the potato and cabbage capital of Florida) that serves the best fried chicken and corn bread I have ever had in my life. It is a hole in the wall type of place that serves 2 (large) pieces, your choice of 2 sides (which could be okra and tom, collard greens, buttered potatos, mac & cheese, cole slaw, pole beans and many others), a large piece of corn bread and sweet or unsweet tea all for $8.00! This is served every singe Wednesday and it is the best! It is truly divine!
May all your chicken be as good as mine!
I am going to guess you get the mac and cheese…and…the potatoes.
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12:53 pm on April 15th, 2009
Yes. Assertive women are labeled bitches, and assertive men are bold, driven, whatever – but seen as positive.
Tale as old as time…
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1:03 pm on April 15th, 2009
Love, love, love collard greens. Oddly enough, they are not often (or ever, rather) served in Toronto restaurants, which means that I will have to pay this place a visit the next time I’m in town…
It is really hard to get to but I am sure we can figure a way.
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1:28 pm on April 15th, 2009
mmmm. collards. the magic word!
but man! i’ll be damned if i spend $17 for 3 pieces of dark meat chicken. i guess i’ll keep on loving that chicken from popeyes….and michie tavern….
Michie Tavern? What is this of which you speak?
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2:40 pm on April 15th, 2009
Chicken Fried Chicken is even better– you take the chicken and beat it with a pointy mallet (I don’t know what else to call it) Until it’s thinner and all the lumps are gone. Then you put it in egg and flour (with some secret seasonings my mom won’t tell me) and into a pan to fry. it’s freaking AMAZING once you add the gravy.
Meat tenderizer is the word you are looking for. And yum, yes please.
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2:50 pm on April 15th, 2009
Sounds like an establishment with promise, but I’ll have to impose the rule of thumb I impose on all my chicken joints: if I can’t get dry white toast as a side, I ain’t goin’.
White toast? Who the what…this northern girl has so much to learn.
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3:54 pm on April 15th, 2009
No, she just needs to watch “The Blues Brothers” more often, that’s all.
Dude, apparently.
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8:18 pm on April 15th, 2009
tasty fried chicken
is southern cuisine’s haiku
simple yet divine
Simple perfection.
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8:19 pm on April 15th, 2009
Was disappointed I did not get any fried chicken at lunch today at “Matthews”, a legendary meat-and-three in Tucker GA.
Looks like she’s doing it right.
She is doing it very well.
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