Oh, Central…the things you do to me. I am walking with an added spring in my step this morning, a happy grin plastered all over my face. You did not let me down.
I’ve been trying to eat a proper meal at Central for months, especially since it won the James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant this year. I have been for drinks and dessert, but the stars have never alligned for a proper visit. Last night, the Universe was on my side.
We showed up for our 8.30 reservation and they were running a tad behind. We were seated at 8.40 and they were appropriately apologetic. Our server promptly arrived at our table offering water. Wine orders were placed and the bread arrived. Warm and crusty, it was a perfect sourdough. The butter was soft and creamy, which thrilled me. Nothing annoys me more than ice cold butter. Things were looking promising.
Our appetizers were timed perfectly and they set the bar incredibly high for the rest of the meal. I had the chopped salad; it was perfectly dressed with a slightly tangy vinaigrette. The salami in the salad was salty and flavorful and the vegetables were crisp and fresh. My companion had the mushroom risotto and it was amazing. I wish I had a better word, but seriously…it was the perfect risotto. Creamy and perfectly seasoned, the taste of the mushrooms shined throughout the dish without being overpowering. I stole more than a few bites.
For my main course, I had the lamb shank. This was, without a moment of hesitation, the best lamb I have ever had in my life. It was falling off the bone it was so tender. It sat on a bed of creamy polenta which complimented the meat perfectly. A rich, hearty gravy covered the plate. My companion ordered the mussels which were tender and decadent, though he did say they were not the best he had ever had. I agree; Granville Moore’s does a better job, but these were still awesome. The fries that came with the mussels were crispy and not greasy…they would have been perfect except they were underseasoned. Not a huge deal to salt them ourselves, but this seemed like a bit of an oversight and a basic the kitchen should have down.
And desert? Oh God. We shared the banana split, but frankly, it could have fed a family…we didn’t come close to finishing it. The homemade ice creams were divine. The ultra rich dark choclate was so creamy it was almost like frozen mousse and the strawberry sorbet was perfectly sweet without being overpowering. My favorite one was the malted vanilla ice cream; it was sweet and a tad nutty at the same time and it made me want to be a better person. The sundae was covered with chocolate and caramel sauce, pineapples, whipped cream (which was a touch too thick), and MINI WHOPPERS. Oh my goodness, those mini malt balls were sinful and such a whimsical touch. We had to skip the nuts (allergies…), but I can imagine it would have made it even more decadent. I think I am glad we skipped the nuts; I can only take so much excitement.
The service throughout the night was attentive, but unobstrusive. The server gained my respect when he steered me away from one fo the dessert options; I really appreciate when folks are straight with me. The wine list was well priced and he had plenty of suggestions. He actually recommended a cheaper wine to us at one point; there is no better way to earn my trust then to make me feel like you have my best interests at heart. Central is not cheap, but last night was worth every single penny spent. Today, my heart and stomach are happy.
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{ 21 comments… read them below or add one }
Mmmmmmmm my stomach and heart are jealous… I can taste that polenta and gravy.
Glad you had a satisfying night in every way
AW, me too. It was a great night all around.
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I so hate you right now. I read their menu before moving on with your post and the Lamb is what I had decided I need to try. And to my surprise, you got the lamb. I am uber jealous and sighing a breath of contempt. I must try this place! Thanks for the review, Cheers.
We are connected, JP! You need to make the trip. You will not be disappointed.
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I LURVE Central. Methinks I must make it back sooner rather than later. I had the rabbit, and even though I think it was the only time I’ve ever eaten rabbit, I’m fairly certain it will always be the best.
Rabbit was on my short list…bettyjoan loves it there. Yet, the best rabbit I have ever had is at Cashion’s and I didn’t want to sully the memory.
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I’ve heard great things about those lamb shanks, but they’ve never been on the menu when I was there. I love everything about Central but their tendency to use a little too much salt (and I do like salt!)
They do great burgers too, but not as good as Palena’s!
Ironic, since the fries were undersalted. Also, I didn’t order the burger specifically because you, along with several other people, said Palena’s burger is better.
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What, no short ribs?
They are off the menu! SO sad. But the lamb made me forget. That is how good it was.
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We should have drinks and dessert there one night – I want that Kit Kat thingie in the worst way.
Glad you didn’t get the burger. Jealous of what you did get.
What did the server steer you away from?
Kit Kat is off the menu; they now have a chocolate bar.
He steered me away from the bread and butter pudding.
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My pb&j lunch is looking like crap right now.
If it is chunky peanut butter, I bet it is pretty damn good.
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Mmmm, lamb shank, easily my favorite of the shanks.
Mine too! I feel so close to you.
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I’m sitting here eating my 10:30 cheetos and glaring at the lamb shank, risotto, and banana split descriptions filled with jealous rage.
Don’t take your rage out on the cheetos. They don’t deserve it.
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Connected we are! I am still severely jealous that this month I am not in DC, thus preventing me from satisfaction of delicious lamb… LAME!
Soon enough, soon enough.
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That sounds fandamntastic. I’ve only had drinks and appetizers at the bar. I’m sitting in my cube on this grim grey day craaaaving carbs – I could happily snuggle in to a warm risotto right now.
Yeah, the risotto really was something. Cannot recommend it enough.
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mmmmmmmm.
i want it. all of it.
i love a waiter who will steer you right or wrong.
glad you enjoyed so much!
Yes, he was a very smart man to steer us to the banana split (it was my other option anyway).
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I have been there three times and each time, I leave happier than before. This restaurant is one of my favorite places in the city. I can report that the Kit Kat dessert is pretty fantastic, too…
Sadly, the Kit Kat is no more.
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I really have to stop reading this blog before lunch. Good lord I’m hungry now.
Go eat lunch! It is late.
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I had the same problem with the fries. Funny.
I’m trying to come up with something for Shannon’s page and I’m discovering this blogging thing is harder than it looks.
Do you think these things write themselves!!??
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I love the restaurant reviews, please keep them up. I went to Nando after reading your post and loved it!
I am glad you liked it…simple but good stuff there.
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I haven’t been so thanks for your perspective!
Oh, you must try. MUST.
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That’s weird, I used to party and hangout at Grand Central with Roosh in Adams Morgan a while ago, I didn’t know the food was cool like that, do they still have skanky chicks dancing in frat juice or what?
Holla!
Oh, VK. They do at that Grand Central, but the place has kinda become a sausagefest lately.
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i must say that without hesitation, you and nigella are my fave food writers EVER. you may even nudge her our of #1 due to your hilarious social acuity and witty turn of phrase.
bookmarked.
Wow. Thats incredibly flattering. Thank you so much.
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i had started a very detailed review of central yesterday and then my battery died and my notebook went into hibernation (god i love the way bears can hibernate). in any event, i will try and recreate my story when i have more energy.
I look forward to it. Do you have a blog?
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Well, I had every intention of going to my establishment and having one or two cocktails and going home. Little did I know (or did I) that it was half price wine night. So, a bottle and perhaps a few “touch ups” later, I find myself somehow going through my favorite economics blogs and then making my way here. So, I figured I have a full battery, might as well review Central.
Let me state a few ground rules. I am a grazer. I have conditioned, coerced, cajoled, pleaded with my dates, friends, and family that this is the way to eat. I eat multiple time a day. I always eat small portions. When I am at a restaurant, I always share food and I always order multiple dishes. That being said, here is the review.
Central is one of my go to places. They have convenient valet parking and it is cheap relative to nearby locales. I sit at the far end of the bar near the wine rack. I find the dining room too open and too noisy. I request Tracy as my bartender (he understands and accommodates my grazing habits).
The following assumes dinner for two. I first order a cocktail (no need for a menu yet; I dont come to a restaurant to rush and leave). I never order everythng at once. I now order a nice bottle of wine and a half dozen oysters and ask for the bread. The wine is fairly priced, the oysters fresh, and the bread (oh the butter so good as previously reported by the kind hostess of this blog). Next, is a goat cheese salad which Tracy is kind enoug to split. Depending on how things are going, another bottle of wine is now in order or not. I next order the steak au povire med rare with side of fries. Oh my god, is it good. I am not talking about the steak (which is delicious), but i am referring to the outstanding onion accompande (recipe was in the WaPo a few weeks ago). The onions and the fries are so ridiculously good. Once again, the bartender has managed to split the dish. We always finish the steak and onions but neve the fries.
I leave my car at Central and venture elsewhere for a nightcap, hopefully back in time to retrieve it.
Thanks for the review. I agree re: the valet pricing. I commented to my companion that the price was really quite excellent. I wll have to go and ask for Tracy…though I may have to get the banana split again.
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